The way to Pick the Perfect Nikon DSLR for Your Needs

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DescriptionSelecting a new DSLR can be extremely mind-boggling, particularly when you’re a first-time buyer.

Not only do you have to determine between brands, but then you must decide between models, lenses, and accessories – all of which can cause a daunting experience.
That said, the goal of this post is to help make that choice just a little bit simpler.
Why Nikon?
I’ve been shooting Nikon since I got into DSLR photography about 5 years ago. as soon as I purchased my first camera (a D5000), the selection was a relatively straightforward one: my dad had some Nikon lenses and I didn’t have much money!
Now several years after I’m not as unhappy with that conclusion as ever. Nikon’s consistent lens mount size over the years enables you to use lenses going back to the 70s and 80s on many of Nikon’s latest DSLR bodies – meaning you'll be able to get quality used glass, at a cost that is comparatively cheap.
That’s a conversation for another day, nevertheless.
The bottom line is, you’re going to get a camera that is great with a great array of lenses with either Canon or Nikon. If you have friends or family members that shoot at one or the other, and you’ll be around them regularly, that’s a good enough reason for me to pick either brand.
But since I shoot Nikon, today’s post is about how to choose Nikon DX-format Digital SLR Camera for you!
Get Past the Hype: Things that Don’t Matter
At the time of this writing Nikon has 4 cameras that you simply may be deciding between: The D3200, D90, D5200 or D7100. These are the most updated versions, and in some situations you might be considering one that’s a generation elderly in order to save cash – we’ll talk about that.
I’d preferably start out by listing a couple things that you just should certainly stop paying attention to – by doing so yet before we begin going into the person models, you’ll make your choice a lot simpler.
Odds are if you haven’t purchased a camera in a while, the very first thing you look at when choosing the camera is the megapixel count.
Cease. Please.
Any new camera will have more than enough megapixels for what you want these days. Even one on the lower range that's 10-12 will have enough detail for you to blow your pictures up to poster size with no major problems, and seriously, how often are you doing that?
Once you reach 24 megapixels the files sizes arehuge, although it may be fine to have the flexibility. On my D7100, I seldom, if ever, shoot at the maximum quality degree, simply because it only isn’t practical.
Total Frame Vs. Cropped Frame
New to photography? Afterward you do look at a full frame sensor. For a Nikon camera, to put it differently you can instantly stop paying attention to the D600, D800, or D4.
They’re large. They’re not cheap. And unless you’re a professional shooter, they’ll be overkill for what you’re looking for.
Save your cash for some new lenses and cease thinking about those totally.
You should know that Nikon’s cheapest DSLR the D3200 has image quality that in most shooting situations will be close to as good as that on their high-priced camera, the D4 to help set your mind at ease even more. Most of what you’re getting with more high-priced cameras is more options, on camera controls, and other things professionals want and you likely don’t.
This may matter for a select few of you, but for most of you, it should be a non issue.
The point is, have you ever really shot on video on a DSLR? Most beginners haven’t. It’s not easy.
The sound is awful, the auto-focus doesn’t work in a manner that is usable, and it’s nothing like using a camcorder or your telephone.
If you desire an excellent camera that does video, check out a pocket camera like the Canon S110 – which shoots excellent video and is user-friendly.
Knowing what you have some additional tools and ’re doing , then a DSLR can be a great way to break into a more professional video set up. But if all you want to do is movie your children, you’d be best searching elsewhere.
Does all that make sense? Excellent, glad we’ve got that cleared up. Now, let’s get you a camera!
Discovering the Best Camera for Your Needs
Rather than regurgitate all the technical specs of each camera for you, I’m going to look at the different type of users of Nikon cameras and then help you locate a camera based on what you identify with the most.
Greatest Photograph Quality at the Cheapest Price Possible?
The quality from an entry level DSLR will match that of their more expensive counterparts, as I mentioned before, for most applications, in great lighting. So all you actually want is good image quality and aren’t needing to break the bank if, then pick up the Nikon D3200.
You can likely locate the senior D3100 which is still a fantastic camera, or refurbished versions if you’re genuinely concerned about price. You’re forfeiting quality is built by some from the higher end cameras, if you go with that, and the screen is a reduced resolution than the newer model.
Don’t get the D3000, there was nothing very impressive about it.
Without Breaking the Bank experienced DSLR User Desiring to Upgrade?
Let’s face it, cost is an issue for most people. Thus let’s say you’re ready to go past your D3100 or D5000 you’ve had for a couple years, to something more representative of your experience degree. You’ve got a few lenses, but still don’t want to overspend.
Consider a D7000. Many of the upgrades that were made will be trifling to the average user, but the image quality will be comparable to the D7100, although it’s not the newest camera on the block.
I’ve seen body only D7000 going for as low as $649, which is nearly half the price of a new D7100.
The D7000 is a large step up in relation to features and build quality from some of the cameras in the 3000 or 5000 line, so don’t shy away from this merely because it’s a couple years old.
It is a great camera for the cost and ’s also worth noting that while it’s 5 years old, the D90 is broadly accessible. It lacks some of the features of the newer D7000 line, but is a great step up from Nikon’s entry level cameras when it comes to controls.
Starting HDR Photographer?
You can do HDR with any camera which allows manual controls to be set by you, nevertheless you’re going to want something that's bracketing built in, if you’re serious about it.
This means your camera can automatically take 3 pictures at varying exposures, generally one at normal exposure, then one underexposed, and eventually one over exposed.
After that you can use HDR software to create one perfectly exposed image.
The D3200 doesn’t do bracketing, so for the start HDR photographer you’ll if cash is more of an issue a D5100 or want to pick up a D5200. A couple of years ago I learned HDR on my D5000 while traveling through Thailand, and it was a great intro camera. A customizable function button that let me easily turn on bracketing, although it had a menu system that I was used to with a point and shoot.
Experienced HDR Photographer?
If you’re a more experienced HDR photographer, then you certainly should just pick up the D7100.
There are a couple key characteristics which make this a better camera for HDR.
You can shoot 5 shot mounts. You’ll learn that 3 brackets often isn’t enough to get the range of light you'll need as you get better at HDR. The D7100 makes it simple to add two more shots.
It also shoots at up to 7 frames per second, so if you’re trying to shoot brackets on the fly and don’t have a tripod – this will get you much better results (although you should still use a tripod).
The plethora of on camera controls and customization capabilities suits itself to a more experienced photographer and will make setting up photos much simpler.
Worth noting that the D7000 simply does 3 exposure brackets, thus in this case I believe it’s worth checking out the D7100.
Upgrading to first DSLR from Shoot and Point?
If you shoot your entire life and ’ve been using a point, updating to a DSLR can be a little daunting endeavor. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t need to be!
The best part about the D3200 for beginners is that it’s very menu based. The camera can do much of what it’s bigger siblings can, but much of it's still in – that is easy to browse menus just like in your point and shoot. There’s even a question button that'll clarify what distinct attributes of the camera do if you’re unsure.
Then the D5200 is worth taking a look at if you’re needing to have a little more control, but still keep the intimacy of a menu based camera. It will definitely give you more room to grow than the D3200.
Have a Lot of Nikon Lenses from Your Movie Days 20 Years Ago?
For instance my aunt has an old 50mm f/1.2 that I’ve been trying to obtain on “long term loan” for awhile now. This lens wouldn’t have metered on either my old D5000or D90. With D7100 or the D7000 yet, nearly every lens from 1977 or newer will both meter and autofocus.
So if you've got plenty of old lenses, don’t sell them away just yet, you may only need a brand new camera body.
Want Professional Features, but On a Budget?
Here you have a couple choices. You might be tempted to snag D300 that was used for less than the price of some of the newer cameras. On the surface this seems like an excellent thought. You’re getting incredible build more manual features, quality, and a less expensive cost – but I’d think about doing this.
The D300 is an old camera. Many progress in camera tech have been made, and you’ll get better photographs and older cameras are ’sed by many usable characteristics in a D7100 than one of Nikon.
Stick with the D7100 that is still almost half the price of they and the most affordable full frame camera the D600 – ’re fundamentally the same when it comes to attributes.
Appearing to Do Photography and More Serious Video?
If you’re actually seriously interested in video, I hate to say this, but contemplate changing to Canon. I’m a Nikon guy through and through, and I also do lots of video. The video quality on a D7100 or even D5200 is incredible. But there are particular features that become a bit of a deal breaker.
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